Day 7

How do you explain glaciers? The beauty of this frozen water that surpasses the time of ages. The way it decorates the mountains in such a design that draws people here. These glorious white strong glaciers. Shades of white and changing depths hanging from the mountains and slowly...sometimes quickly changing shapes. So strong they can move rock, yet a whisper of a vibration and the glacier breaks. With that small movement a crackling, crumbling sound is heard...the kind that echoes deep inside you like a base drum....and soon the reaction is seen as a strip of ice berg falls smoothly into the bay. Heavy and beautiful, it shouts a final goodbye to the part left clinging to the mountain. Rings of waves form the impact, soaking the shore and smothering the rocks.


I wish that you could come and sit here beside me...in this chair and look out on the scene that surrounds. It's 7pm and the sun is just dipping into an afternoon position casting an outstanding light onto everything it touches. The wind has carved the aged snow resting on the hills to the port side of the boat. The icebergs on the starboard side still hold their blue glow and the water...it's golden...sparkling gold with a deep bright blue. I didn't know water so deep could shine blue...not black or a dark foggy blue...but a clear clean blue. I tried taking a photo, but then threw it down on the bed in disappointment. Nature can not be captured by a man made device. We might try to create, but it doesn't compare. This 360 3D imagine can not be reproduced. It's a gift to be here. A gift to see this. An opportunity that I am grabbing and holding onto with thankfulness. Snow. Ice. Water. Sun. Clouds. Wind. Stone. All arranged in a way that I can't quite grasp...can't describe...can barely absorb just sitting here. What more can be said? This keyboard must stop for this moment and this laptop closed. I need to just look and breath in my surroundings.

Day 4

Like crazy horns, the colony of penguins could be heard. Squinting hard and looking to the exposed cliffs pushing through the snow, small dots moving confirmed the fact. The wind blowing, bitter cold, more layers were a must before heading to Half Moon Island...the first landing in Antarctica. Was I really here??? The coldness on my cheeks mixed with the sounds of penguins made reality shout “yes” and then off to the right it hit my core as I looked at a glowing piece of ice. Blue ice they call it, formed from thousands of years of compaction. Never before had my eyes seen such a thing. Glowing softly a brilliant blue, this truly was Antarctica.

Layers on layers, I prepared for the cold. Soon I'd be out there with the playful penguins...here at the bottom of the world!!! I pulled my second jacket over the first, twisting my arm down the sleeve until my hand popped out of the cuff. Thick hat, two pairs of gloves, waterproof pants and rubber boats, I waited in line to board the zodiac. Excitement filled the air and smiles came easily to people's faces. All were about to experience a dream of a life time. Stepping into the sanitation bucket (to kill any microorganism on the boots...a standard procedure for Antarctica), I thought how the name of this boat fit so perfectly. Antarctic Dream. Written on the back of the red coat in front of me, I knew for me...this was true. It was a dream to be here and as I made my way down the metal stairs into the small rubber boat, I knew my dream was about to become a reality.

Before I knew it, the boat was on shore. A few quick movements and then I was standing on land. Dark, black stones under my feet. Snow scattered with dark red in front of me and cliffs beyond. Forgetting about the cold, I looked left. Next to a shipwrecked rowboat, hopped a penguin out of the sea and then a second appeared out from the froth of the wave. Just 15 feet away, I stood and stared.

Hearing the movement of rocks behind me, I turned as a naturalist approached. I could see his eyes smiling and even though he was loaded down in layers as I, his step had a lightness to it. “How are you gals doing?'' asked his cheerful voice. I answered and then asked him the same. His answer was already displayed through his gestures. “I'm home”. Simple yet filled with so much emotion.

How could Antarctica be home? Cold, so far from civilization... Already looking around, I thought I could see what he meant. This place was special, and the girl next to me stated as much. His response left a delightful suspense “Oh and this is just the beginning”. Smiling, he pointed to the "tour "guide for the island and as I walked away I knew I was stepping not only onto a new continent, but also into a world of imaginable adventures.

Wild Dandelions in November

Dandelions...I know they are a weed, but such a bright, happy yellow color that fills gaps in the green grass. Its spring here and with that comes the dandelions, working hard to make their apperance and to keep it. The yellow mixed with the blue sky, shiny white caps of snow and green ground is quite breath taking. Tall snow capped mountains hugging the town on three sides with the bay on the fourth. I am still adjusting to just soaking in the scenery. I am here. What a blessing.

People on the street...mostly hikers mixed in with the townspeople.

Adventures are just waiting to happen and I´ve already had so many!!!

I am really here...so far from home...at the tip of the land. In a few hours I´ll be leaving...floating on the water in a vessel headed for that beautiful silent contient.

Finally A n t a r c t i c a

Yesterday

Pure, light mist rising in the air. The pounding force of water falling over the edge causes the continuing billow of cotton near the water falls. As I look, it's hard for me to even imagine exactly how many tons of water are being tossed off the river bed for a thriller belly flopper ride to the bottom. Water is powerful. Shattered by the fall, the fine mist rises as a sideways cloud from the bottom. With a sudden blast of air, it's hard not to breath in the “cloud” as it glues bits of wetness to my skin. It feels good though. The sun is shining brightly and the wet coolness is refreshing, giving my parched sun dried skin a drink. This is Iguazu Falls.

Under my feet, lies an appearing thin metal floor with holes in it. It has to be strong, but I can't help but stand to one side of it as I watch the water underneath me. The water that on one side of the bridge seems quite calm, but that too is deceptive as it rushes forward and flies for just a moment over the edge before beginning that long deep descent. Who knows how far exactly for there's so much mist, it looks like the ground is a cloud.

What a day...from riding through the jumpy waters in a boat and being sprayed by the falls to walking and exploring them within a feet or two. We ate lunch near a few lizards with the music of water in the background. Of course I had to throw a few leaves into the water and attempted to watch them ride over the edge. It was hard with the current! Sometimes it would suck the leaf under so quickly, you'd never see it reappear! We couldn't take enough photos. Every angle of the falls looked different...and trying to capture was defeating. How can you capture on a small 2x2 inch 2D screen what you see in front of you? It just doesn't work.

We finally took our Jeep ride (just in the jungle instead of the desert) and seeing a few unique wild animals was wonderful. Especially the variety and immensity of the butterflies. It wasn't unusual to have one land on your head, arm, foot and to see crowds of them gathered on the ground. If they were so beautiful, they would have almost been annoying. We also both received a late reminder to put on more sunscreen from the bright hot sun and today are a bit multicolored.

Currently I am sitting in a chair looking out into the courtyard of our hostel. Brightly colored with red, blue, yellow and green walls, it complements the flowers and plants that form an archway tunnel outside my door. The sky is turning blue after a rainstorm and the birds are telling the world the storm is over by their gentle chatter and variety of singing tunes. I'm thankful for the rain. It is no longer sweltering hot!

Tonight we are planning to visit the falls once more and see the moon reflect on the water. (We hope!!! It only works if it's not cloudy!!!!)

A few more stories

Bright pink with strips of blue, black, red and white, the strong cloth is tied around the shoulders and neck enclosing the baby on the back. How can these women carry so much on their back? How does the baby stay in? Cowboy hat on the head with braids coming down on either side of the rainbow material, the lady walks closer to the clinic door. Her forest green skirt looks stiff in the shape of an upside down cupcake holder. It brushes against the clinic door as she enters. tired and wet from rain, she sits down and remains silent. Other women waiting to be seen by the doctor begin talking again. How can I show this lady love? Sometimes when looking at others...i wish they were young..like small children so that I could wrap them in my arms and just let them know some one cares.

These women are important yet the community they live in is difficult. Women don't count. That is the message taught. Even men who try to change, find it hard to understand the concept that gentleness, faithfulness and love are vital. I am amazed at these women and their strength, both physically and emotionally.

The crowded truck is started. I've lost track of the number in the back. As the door beside me is being shut, a hand stops it and another two hands place a small child...a baby in my lap. It happens so quickly, I don't even catch the lady's face. And there this child is. Almond large eyes stare at me for a moment before resting her head near my heart. How old is she? By looks, she can't be more than 9 months...but that is not true...she's nearly 2 I am told as the truck starts spitting dirt driving down the dirt road. Her fragile body reveals the story. Almost starved by her biological mom, this child is now safe in the Josephine house.

Eyes wide with amazement the little boy beings to laugh as the plastic bubble is handed over to him. Attempting to remain balanced on top of the moving small boat, I sit down and prepare to blow another for the other boy. Neither of us speak Spanish well, but once again...sometimes certain things just go beyond the spoken word. These precious children. I wonder if they will be farmers or fishermen like the old men in their families. This would be the place to live. On an island...away from the harshness of the world. Farming land and taking care of livestock while seeing the lake and mountains all around. They seem light and happy. I wonder how it really is. Men were special hats...they look like colorful stocking caps and rainbow purses and belts. They greet each other by exchanging coca leaves from their purses. Women are in the background...wearing black shawls with only a bit of color at the edges. I wonder how they are treated.

Agh! I´d love to write more...but must be off to ride a night bus to the edge of Peru. Tomorrow is Chile!!!